Land Rover Discovery: Torx Screw and Rivnut

A Torx Screw and Rivnut are used where the fitment of a Breakstem

Fastener Type A would give a poor cosmetic appearance. There are also occasions where the Torx Screw and Rivnut replaces a Breakstem Fastener Type B, where there is no access for the Genesis G4. The Rivnut acts as the thread.

Removal

The removal of the Torx Screw is carried out using a T30 Torx Driver. The Rivnut is not an original fixing.

Installation

The Torx Screw is installed using a T30 Torx Driver. The Rivnut is installed using the Wurth HES412 Rivet Nut Thread Setter, (Part No: 964948900).

CUTTING OUT BODY PARTS

Depending on how the parts are joined/connected, different tools are suitable for cutting/separating body parts.

Spot-weld mill

NOTES:

• All other parts like interior equipment, window glass etc. must be protected against flying sparks.
• Ensure that the milling depth is set correctly to prevent the remaining flange from being weakened.

Rod sander

NOTE:

Wear protective clothing. Protect any vulnerable body or glass areas against flying sparks. Remove explosive materials from the vicinity.

Any spot welds that are inaccessible for the spot-weld mill (diameter > 8 mm) should be ground out using a rod sander. The same applies to MIG spot welds or seams.

Short stroke saw

NOTE:

Underlying metal parts, wiring harnesses, hoses etc. must not be damaged - remove them beforehand if necessary.

Body saws are particularly versatile and are therefore very suitable for making severance cuts on body parts.

Reciprocating saw

In addition to the short stroke saw, the reciprocating saw can be used. With this, it is possible to make narrow and straight cuts to an exact depth.

CARRYING OUT THE REPAIRS

Butt joint

NOTE:

The severance cut should always be kept as short as possible on sectional replacement. Only cut at the severance lines shown in the repair chapters.

Do not make any cuts near reinforcements or pre-determined folding lines.

Prepare parts remaining on the vehicle/new parts.

Do not use a welding torch to remove paint residue (the heat could cause the metal to deform).

• Reshape the adjoining surface of any dented body parts that are to remain on the vehicle using a hammer and a counterhold (ensure that the old part matches the shape of the new part). Grind off left over spot welds or seams with an angle grinder.
• Cut the new parts to shape.
• If necessary punch or drill holes for mig plug welding.

NOTE:

Do not use a welding torch to remove paint residue (the heat could cause the metal to deform).

• Grind all joining flanges to bare metal on both sides. Do not use an angle grinder for this purpose (this could weaken the metal and damage the zinc layer). Suitable tools: rotating wire brush, belt sander or plastic disc.
• Apply welding primer liberally to all weld flanges.
• The primer must be well stirred before use.

NOTE:

When using aerosols, take care not to contaminate adjacent parts with spray mist.

It must be ensured that the new part fits exactly to the specified dimensions. Suitable equipment:

• Alignment jig.
• Universal measuring system.
• Jig system.
• Ruler or tape measure.
• Compass.
• Frame dimensions can be found in the model-specific repair manuals

NOTE:

Any attached body parts that require accurate alignment and fitting must be incorporated in this step; for instance bumpers, seals, headlamps, rear lamps and lock assembly components. If this is not done carefully it may result in water leaks, wind noises and substantial follow-on work.

Ensure that edges line up with adjacent parts and check that gaps are consistent (compare left and right-hand sides). Make sure that the shape of the vehicle is retained.

Secure the new part

NOTE:

The need for subsequent follow-on work can be significantly reduced if aligning and tack-welding are carried out with due care.

Depending on accessibility the following methods for securing are available:

• Grip pliers (set of).
• Screw clamp (set of).
• Self-tapping screws.
• Tack welds.

Use a staking tool or a screwdriver to ensure that the edges of sectional replacements of profiled parts line up. The edge is then tack welded to ensure that it lines up.

Aligning and tack weld

1. Tack welds
2. Using a screwdriver to align

• Longer joins are usually tack welded to prevent the panel from warping. It is important to carry out the tack welds in the correct sequence (see diagram).
• Weld in the new part following the instructions in the repair manual.

Correct tack welding sequence

Follow on repairs/corrosion protection

This step basically covers the following work: See corrosion protection section for cavity wax application areas.

• Grinding welded seams.
• Priming any bare metal.
• Sealing welded seams.
• Applying underbody protection.
• Sticking damping matting in place.
• Filling cavities with cavity wax.

NOTE:

See corrosion protection section for cavity wax application areas.

• Cavity wax (after painting).

Self-piercing Rivet (SPR)Panel Beating

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